Choosing your first car

You've just got your licence. You can't wait to jump behind the wheel of a jet-fast "Merc" and floor it — the accelerator, that is. But what if you actually think about it? What if it takes more than just flooring the accelerator? Do you know how much repairs cost? Can you guess? Good, you're already ahead. And that's not even talking about serious repairs. On a brand-new foreign car, or even a late-model Lada, even a simple scratch or dent doesn't just offend the eye — it empties your wallet. And a beginner driver can't avoid them. The dents, that is. There's just no way. That's why plenty of people, for their first experience and their inevitable scrapes, buy a cheap used car — something like an old Lada or a Moskvich. The price is low, and if something happens, it's not such a loss.

Of course, if you're taking that kind of car, there's no point being picky. Don't go pointing out rust spots on the body to the seller, worn seats (no covers — oh, the horror!), a grubby interior, or holes in the exhaust. What matters most to you? Right. The car needs to run. Every system that provides for motion and safety needs to be in working order. That's what you should check against the price they're asking. Well, fine, that's if we're talking about something old and domestic. But what if it's also used, only a bit more serious? Then it's a whole different conversation.

Start checking a car you like from the interior and the bodywork. Look at the appearance, at the condition the car is in both inside and out. Don't assume that the engine and running gear are what matters most. The body will tell you about the car's overall condition. All the assemblies work for the same length of time, cover the same mileage, and so wear out at roughly the same rate. A rotten body can't hide a healthy engine and suspension. And a dirty body should put you on guard right away. Every seller knows how important a car's appearance is for a sale. So if the body is suddenly dirty — isn't that because various defects hide so nicely under the grime?

Take a close look at the paintwork. Are there any panels that differ even slightly in tone? If so, those are probably repainted panels, meaning the car has likely been in an accident. And that's worse. A magnet will help you find spots on the body where a thick layer of filler has been applied — it won't stick to the body there. It's especially worth checking the body's weakest spots this way: the wheel arches, the curves of the wings and the door edges. You need to know just how badly the metal has been eaten by corrosion.

Check the tyre wear. If it's uneven, that means either the suspension has a problem, or the body's geometry is off. Sometimes the tyre looks as if it's been shaved along one edge on the wheel. That's fine if it's simply down to a bad wheel-alignment setting. But it can also point to a serious accident in the past. A poorly fitting bonnet tells the same story. Open and close it a few times. And check whether the gaps between the bonnet and the body are the same on both sides. You never know.

Even on well-kept cars, chrome trim tends to have a sad fate. It loses its shine and rusts. And no polishing compound will help. Restoring it is expensive. So how it looks tells you more about the car's condition than any word from the owner. Often, during repainting, the glass is masked with paper instead of being removed. Lift the weatherstrip a little. If there's a different colour of paint underneath, on the glass itself, the car has been repainted. And sometimes paint accidentally gets onto the seal itself.

Another way to check a car for repainting is to open the boot. Look at the paint finish inside and outside. Then check the colour and, especially, the condition of the paint in the boot under the carpet. There will always be tell-tale scratches, rust spots and so on. You can see the same thing under the bonnet.

Inside the cabin, pay attention to the condition of the steering wheel, the door trim and the seats. If the car has been used heavily and for a long time, the steering wheel will barely have any textured pattern left, and the seats will be sagging. What's more, heavily worn seats suggest the car was used as a taxi. It's best to steer clear of cars like that.

Look at the rubber pads on the pedals. And at the driver's floor mat, at the spot under the driver's heel. Odometer readings can be very tempting. But those numbers never lie — their wear always matches the mileage. And one more thing: it's a very good sign if there are no traces of brake fluid on the brake pedal. In any case, you should check not just the brake pedal but the brake hoses too. They shouldn't have any damage or rust, and shouldn't be splashed with brake fluid. If you spot anything like that, walk away from the purchase. If you're somehow sure this is your car anyway, replace them before your very first drive.

Start the engine and let it warm up. Then open the bonnet. Listen to how the engine runs. If one of the cylinders isn't firing, you'll hear it clearly. There also shouldn't be any strange noises or knocking. Look at the smoke from the exhaust pipe. In petrol engines, thick bright-blue or blue smoke indicates worn piston rings. Because worn rings no longer seal properly against the cylinder walls, engine oil gets into the combustion chamber and gives the exhaust that colouring. In that case, the engine needs an overhaul. Are you ready for that? With diesel cars it's the other way round: it's normal for thick black smoke to come from the pipe right after starting. In some direct-injection diesels, the smoke can be blue while the engine warms up. But the blue colour disappears once it's warmed through.

If the car you like is fitted with an LPG conversion, and the owner asks extra for it, it's worth admitting that it's worth the money. Down the line, that equipment will help you save a serious amount on fuel.

These tips will help you buy a used car. And that car will serve you for as long as you need it to. You'll be among the owners who spend more time driving than repairing.